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  • Writer's pictureThe Bald Journaller

Day 12 & 13 (Uluru)

2 days - long on walking and reflecting - short on time to write.

Its hard to describe the impact Uluru has had on me, but it is its cultural and spiritual significance more than its geological magnificence. There is no doubt in my mind that it is a stunning rock, and at sunrise and sunset, only more so, slowly changing colour and creating an aura of imposing beauty; you would have to be very hard hearted to be unaffected.

But somehow its spiritual, historical and cultural significance to the local Anangu people is somehow more, much more. The scientific me would consider their stories of creation, just that, stories. But the meaning in them as signposts for a way of life, I can relate to. Just as all religions have their stories of the beginnings of life, and a moral or ethical code for the way we should live, Uluru provides that as part of the creation stories for Aboriginal people. A guided walk in the company of an Aboriginal man provided insight to the stories, the fauna, the flora and the art associated with this magical place. And there was much he could not tell us, partly because of traditional strictures on what can be shared with non Aboriginals and partly because he was clearly new to the job and rather nervous!

As you will see from the pictures it is almost impossible (well with an iPhone anyway) to get a picture that conveys the rock's majesty, the colour and the shadow, the imposing size, and certainly not its meaning.

Notices are posted all over the place and the park information makes it very clear that those who own it, revere it and consider it part of their cultural identity, would like you not to climb it (and that is without considering the danger - 35 have died on it), so I admit to be rather dismayed at the numbers who choose to ignore that wish. As I heard one father explain to his 6 year old daughter, "it would be like climbing on a church". I would go further, it did feel to me like it would be desecrating a sacred or holy place. Whether or not I subscribe to that religion, or any religion, is not the point; I respect the wishes of those who do. We didn't climb! To be honest, I actually think that those who did are missing the point.

OK, enough of the sermon. We have been staying in the wonderful Ayers Rock Resort for the last 3 nights. Reasonably basic accommodation (there is everything from camping, through dormitories to 5 star luxury), but a lively bar and some great restaurants and the location is just fabulous - right on the edge of the Uluru-Kata Tjata National Park.

As well as being able to get into the park each day within 10 minutes we were also lucky enough to see the fantastic light installation by Bruce Munro - Field of Lights - 55,000 solar powered glass, hand blown, crystals lit in the shadow of Uluru. Again the pictures don't come close. And as luck would have it we were there on the night of a full moon - I was almost moved to tears! We even opted for the slightly above base ticket and got treated to bottomless Australian sparkling wine and kangaroo canapés.

So as I write it is off to another fabulous restaurant - crocodile anyone? As long as I don't look at the credit card bill for this part of the trip we have already had a fabulous time! Back to Alice tomorrow and pick up our camper van on Sunday - accommodation is just about to go downmarket! And we really need to do some laundry - everything is covered in red dust.

There are a few more pics in the gallery.

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