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  • Writer's pictureThe Bald Journaller

Day 55 ("No trees", aka The Nullabor)

As I write I sit on a stationary train outside the presumably ironically named Forest; it might have actually been named after an Australian Prime Minister, but even if it is I prefer the ironic version.

Our locomotive has had its windscreen broken by a low flying wedge tailed eagle - not something that happens everyday. There not being that many repair organisations locally we have to wait for a double engined freight train coming from Perth, so that we can exchange our locomotive for their "spare one". Not a problem I have faced in the UK, but all here seem to be taking it with equanimity and stoicism. I guess living in a big place like this it is a common problem - or you carry a spare windscreen! Apparently we only expect a delay of about an hour - nothing in a place like this!

As if to treat us to full offbeat Nullabor experience, just before we broke down, we saw a rainbow - yep the Brits are rainbringers again! It never rains here! Its Broken Hill all over again! It better clear before dinner beneath the stars!

Earlier, after leaving Adelaide late last night, and using a one and half hour time change as an excuse to stay in the bar till late, we had just about reached the Western Australian border after 12 hours. The landscape barely changes for hundreds of kilometres and we are currently on the longest stretch of straight railway track (almost 500km) in the world. In the middle we briefly stopped in Cook, once a thriving town of 200 people, now reduced to a population of…4. Can’t imagine what it is like to live there, but according to the railway guys we met, its not all dull; there are trains though all day, its a refuel stop for the trains and shift drivers sometimes have to stop there. I can imagine there is a lot of grog consumed some nights!

By the end of the day we are still on the Nullabor! It redefines the meaning of the word endless!

The evening brings the promised cold (4ºC) clear skies, and drinks and food out by the fire, as the train slumbers close by. It is hard to even imagine where you are in the world, never mind the universe. The Milky Way is clearly seen and form here I think we are counting visible stars in the millions, possibly billions. Makes you feel kinda small!

Last night on the train, and I will actually be rather disappointed to leave it tomorrow in Perth. It has been a magical experience for all sorts of reasons, apart from the obvious visual beauty, cooped up with a group of the same people for almost 72 hours it is a great way to make new friends! There are many but particularly Wendy and Pete, it has been a pleasure to meet you and if you are ever in Brighton we will make sure we are out! (just kidding!)

New picture gallery for Sydney at https://www.baldjournal.com/blank-page-10

...and one for the Indian Pacific to come.

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