First of all, we have lost the car!! Well, not really (I hope), but how cool is it when you drive up to hotel and they take the keys off you and park it! No idea where it is parked, or whether we will ever see it again, but the reduction in hassle factor is enormous. And its only a poxy 3 star Best Western!... which is undergoing renovation - they haven't got to our room yet! I'm moaning about nothing - its got all we need: bed, bog, bain (French just for the alliteration).
So, refreshed from a sleep that pretty much ended at about 4am (though to be fair my eyes were pretty much closed in the pub at 9pm - Guinness and jet lag tend to do that), we are ready for stroll through the British Columbia capital at the crack of dawn looking, it will surprise no regular reader of this dross, for coffee!! The Blue Fox Cafe not only delivered, but also allowed Nareesa a decent pre-brekkie walk and a plateful of eggs and potatoes (do they know I'm Irish?) to keep me going till at least lunchtime. With a side of fresh fruit I was not only full to bursting but self-satisfiedly (is that a word?) feeling healthy.
So the whole day, without a car and with only shanks's pony to keep us company, could be dedicated to exploration of the city that became the capital of the new combined colonies of British Columbia and Vancouver Island in 1866, much to the disgruntlement of the mainlanders. As far as I can tell it is because the colony of Vancouver Island actually predates the mainland colony of BC - by about 9 years (1849 to 1858).
But there was doubtless some political shenanigans at the time that I don't have the time to research from my late afternoon coffee stop. I'm sure someone will have paid someone handsomely for the decision - politics eh, who would think with today's principled practitioners that it could have been a dirty business? Labour Party leadership anyone? Maybe another time.
The centre of Victoria is very manageable and feels like a pretty cool place to live. There are even peacocks strolling along the sidewalk. I could show off by saying it feels similar to Adelaide (and at least for once my Australian friends will know what I am talking about). Loads and loads of outdoor shops which presumably reflects the lifestyle of many Vancouver Islanders. The Pacific Coast Trail ends at Port Renfrew just an hour north of here and there appear to be abundant opportunities for mountain and water based sports. My favourite gear shop, Mountain Equipment Coop, is only a block away from our hotel - could be very dangerous!
Anyway back to our stroll... One highlight was finding Mile 0 (even though Canada, being a modern country, uses kilometres) at the end/beginning of the trans-Canada highway, which ends/begins roughly 8000km east in St Johns Newfoundland. Which slightly bizarrely also has a Mile 0. Imagine walking it and finding that you have gone nowhere!? That also account for my confusion as to which end is the beginning! And talking of walking it - in 1991 an ultra runner, Al Howie, completed the full distance in 72 days and 10 hours. That is more than 100km per day, every day, for 72 days!!!! The record still stands I believe, and despite briefly considering it, I have decided not to have a go at it!
Mile 0 also has a statue dedicated to Terry Fox, a disabled cancer sufferer who, with only one leg (he had lost one to cancer) set off to run from Newfoundland to BC in 1980 to raise awareness and money for children suffering from cancer. He tragically had to quit after a mere 5353km because his cancer had spread to his lungs. He sadly died on 28 June 1981, aged 22. I remember the time and before the days of social media his exploits spread around the world as he made agonising progress across the country, despite the fact that when he began the run, nobody had heard of him. His memory continues to inspire.
Mile 0 is on the peninsula James Bay, just south of the city centre, one of the earliest European settlements on the island. It appears to remain an inspiration for those of an alternative lifestyle - as the pictures below will testify. From teacups hanging from trees, to painted telegraph poles, to a funky bookshop selling coffee (or was it a funky coffee shop selling books?), it does seem to be a neighbourhood revelling in its difference, just on the doorstep of the big city. Preservation of historical buildings seems to be a priority, although that does have the perhaps less attractive effect of meaning there are quite a few wrecks in the area.
Nope, can't even guess
It lights up a night
The Christmas Moose, obviously!
You run out of canvas...
I love this street!
Spot the teacups and teapots!
There are also some beautiful views across the ocean to Washington State and Olympic National Park. Altogether a fine day - lots of walking and no rain. Tomorrow we head for Butchart Gardens and the ferry back to Tsawwassen (no idea how you pronounce that, or indeed if it is spelt correctly - looks suspiciously like a lot of Ws and Ss to me.
So to close for today (we are heading out for dinner in a recommended restaurant tonight), I loved the contrast of these two houses next door to each other in the James Bay Area - one apparently painted with every left over colour they could find in the attic, the other, well...not! I think the owner of the white house might have been trying to say something!
Just sayin'
