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  • Writer's pictureThe Bald Journaller

Allowed out ... day 6 (a day in the Glens)

Miles today: 170

Miles so far: 1036

u-turns: a frankly appalling 6!

time of arrival: before 6pm!

ferries: just 1 today


Oban greeted us with a sunny warm morning and we again wondered if we were really in Scotland. We haven’t even been bothered by midges for more than about 10 minutes - while waiting for a ferry, what seems like weeks ago, but was actually only two days ago.


But before I recall today‘s adventures, I have been given a hard time about yesterday’s puffins. Not only was I not patient enough to wait for them to come to see us, I ignored the many wonderful pictures that Eric sent me. So here they are - well, one of them. I am sorry we missed them, but Fingal’s Cave was more important and the puffin distraction did mean we had the cave to ourselves. Somewhat bizarrely the puffins see humans as ”friends“ because they keep away the predators like seagulls and skuas. So if you sit long enough near where they nest they come and say hello! Hence the rather cute pictures - taken by Eric, before he harangues me!

So back to those Glens... first off Glencoe, site of the infamous massacre of the Macdonalds. But you are hard pushed to find the memorial, hidden as it is down a residential deadend in the village of Glencoe (hence one, but not the first u-turn). I’m surprised that given Glencoe is known to most schoolchildren as the site of this massacre the memorial is at least not signposted from the glen - but it isn’t. Then to top it all the Glencoe Visitor Centre has fallen victim to the dreadead covid and has not reopened. Slightly disappointing as it is supposed to be good! But we did get a recommendation for the best breakfast in the highlands from a random stranger there. So we duly headed for Ballachulish for the best breakfast in the Highlands! Not. Oh well, always good to try new experiences, like shoe leather bacon and cardboard toast with not enough butter!

The Macdonald Memorial


And so onto Glenfinnan, the site of Bonny Prince Charlie raising his standard in his attempt to reclaim the crown. History is not my strong point, but we all knew he blew it and I understand that is at least part of the reason the Macgregors were subsequently outlawed. We basically backed the wrong side! As it happens it is also the site of the Glenfinnan viaduct, made famous in Harry Potter movies as the bridge the Hogwarts Express crosses on its journey from Kings Cross Platform 9 3/4 (or whatever it is) to the school. Pretty but the only train to cross it we missed!

Bonny Prince Charlie

Next stop Hogwarts


And so on to Glen Nevis where we gazed and took silly selfies looking in awe at the snow still on Ben Nevis in June. It must be properly high. Once upon a time I was up down it in less than 4 hours. Now I’d need a helicopter! We also managed to take a selfie without the top of Ben Nevis actually in it!


Ben Nevis is supposed to be in this picture! It’s off to the right. Muppets.


But here is the mountain!


Finally Glen Garry on the way to Skye. We stopped at the awesomely photogenic Eileen Donan Castle, which I am sure is recognisable by most - although to be honest the view of it from the outside is more impressive than the inside.


We then crossed the bridge onto Skye, while singing “Speed bonny boat...” despite the fact we had elected not to get the ferry - actually it was fully booked!

But we did manage a short ferry across Lock Eil a bit earlier to keep up our obsession! Weird looking ferry too - with the on/off set up at an angle. Enough to give us bikers the heebie jeebies!

And so to end the day of Glens, we are enjoying a small Glenmorangie (actually its Talisker - we’re at Skye, for goodness sake - but it spoils the story!) and if things go seriously wrong we will treat the rest of the hotel bar to some Glen Campbell!


And a major improvement on last nights hotel it is - although it does seem to be full of old Mods - doing the North Coast 500 on Lambrettas or Vespas or whatever they ride. Rather them than me! This is the hotel car park - plenty of rockers too! Let’s hope it doesn’t all kick off.

So, the view from the hotel...

... and finally, a picture that says a thousand words.

That will do for tonight. We really are in the middle of nowhere tomorrow night - so if there is no blog that is why.



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Unknown member
08. 6. 2021

My hearts in the Highlands my heart is not here my hearts in the Highlands a chasing the deer...Travel on.

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Sean Parker
Sean Parker
08. 6. 2021

Brilliant. Looks a fantastic trip thus far. There is something quite magical about Scotland - especially with good weather.

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