It is genuinely hard to get out of greater Vancouver, because for some reason I don't quite understand I seem to have collected a huge number of friends in this lovely part of the world. Having exhausted Michelle (and ourselves) over the last 3 days we have taken the relatively short trip across the city to catch up with John and Nancy, last seen on a crazy New Years Eve at the end of 2019, just before the dreaded covid struck.
Regular readers, of which there are at least 2, will know that John and I go back to the turn of the century (20th to 21st, you fools, otherwise I would be over 120 years old! Don't!), in a much more innocent age when travel in Russia was possible and the country wasn't the international pariah it is currently. A circus in Irkutsk, Siberia is where we met - which I freely admit was, other than the delightful meeting of John and his mum Annie, a pretty depressing affair. Drugged bears bullied to perform for human entertainment is not my idea of fun, but as recent events have unfolded I realise my understanding of Russia is pretty limited. But as ever in just about any place in the world I have ever been, the ordinary people were kind and welcoming, despite the attitudes and greed of those in power. John and his mum, and my dad and I, then joined the same train to Moscow (a mere 78 hours!), and kept sane only through the shared delights of a bottle of (probably illicit) Lagavulin, some fine vodka and some utterly inexplicable Russian "champagne".
Hmm, not sure exactly how I got onto that theme, but let's move on...
After a fabulous evening of great company, excellent Indian food, good wine, our now traditional round of cribbage (Hollywood Dames 1 v 0 Irkutsk Circus, since you ask), and a sizeable slug of Lagavulin 16 year old (our favourite and for old times sake!), we have settled right into Steveston life as if it was only yesterday since we were last here. And funnily enough it actually feels like it was only last week or so. But our usual incompetence means we have forgotten to take even a single picture. John or Nancy, if you did (why can't I remember?) please send on if you are prepared for it to be seen by the world - well, the few people that read this nonsense. (I cheated with the picture above, it was taken on our last visit)
Sadly we have pitched up on John and Nancy before their semester ends and last night was therefore a "school night" (hence only one sizeable slug of uisge beatha, or water of life for those of you who don't speak Gaelic). So today we are having to entertain ourselves in what I now understand was once the busiest port in the world, due to its salmon fishing and canning industry.
Of course it is no problem doing our own thing, which as anyone who knows Nareesa will recognise includes a walk of at least 3-4 hours, and anyone who knows me will know that's ok as long as it includes at least two coffee stops!
A long walk along the south arm of the Fraser River brought us face to face with the history of the place. I can't pretend to remember all of it but a visit to the Britannia Shipyards National Historic Site, found by accident, was an eyeopener. The output of canned salmon in part of the 19th century was such that it made this the busiest port in the world and employed thousands of workers - local, Japanese, Chinese, European and First Nation. Of course you will not be surprised to know that at the time equal pay was a pipe dream (sadly for far too many people, it still is) and for many Chinese, having first come to build the Canadian Pacific Railway, they had not saved enough to earn their passage home to be with families. The whole idea for many had been to save for a better life back home but for some they never returned, instead seeking work in the newly established canneries at the mouth of the Fraser. Often earning less than half the wages of white workers it sounded like an impossible goal to realise the dream of a better life back home. And the living conditions were spartan to say the least. Narrow bunks, three high, for the Chinese workers.
OK, I can't pretend to have taken it all in such was the extent of information at the excellent historic site, but I think I've got the gist. Someone local please correct me if they know better. And I suppose this industry has had some impact on the current ethnic make up of the area. Some of those who planned to go home, simply didn't and some (I've no idea how many) local people will be descendants of those cannery workers.
I've probably banged on enough now about the history of the place - and hope it is at least mostly accurate. I've struggled to find much online about the history of the shipyards (though my reputation for research is not great) so if you want to know more, you'll just have to visit. I recommend it! If you are visiting Vancouver, or live near here, it's definitely worth the trip. And as mentioned yesterday it is the setting for the quirky fantasy show "Once Upon a Time", loosely based on a whole range of fairy tales.
Steveston village is now a charming port and river/sea side place with many a quirky shop and a range of cafes and restaurants. In other words, just my sort of place! (except for the shops). I'm sitting in one of the many cafes now! Steveston is brilliant!
I think that will do for today. We are spending this evening with Sally and Bob, also last seen at the infamous New Year celebrations two and bit years ago. One day soon I must reduce my alcohol intake!
Tomorrow we hope to cross the US border. Then it's down into Washington and Oregon to see some more friends picked up along our previous meandering pathways, before hitting California roughly at Redwood National Park - to see the big trees and start a part of our journey back along memory lane. Last time we were there it was 20 years ago in our truck and trailer.
But that is all to come. For now I will leave you with a few pictures of what has been an excellent day.
A manager's house - a cut above the Chinese bunkhouse.
Well, of course!
Literally dozens of people lived in here.
Granny's Diner, Storybrooke
Taking some of it in!
The obligatory rubbish selfie outside one of the shipyard houses
And finally, an eejet in Steveston. Bye for now.
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