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  • Writer's pictureThe Bald Journaller

Crossing the Rio Grande and getting petrified

Miles yesterday: 250

Miles today: 270

Miles so far: 3550


Is it really only 36 hours since we left Red River? I am beginning to think I am in some sort of time warp - possibly because we keep gaining and losing hours, depending on which state we are in and whether or not we are inside the Navajo Nation (which for some reason keeps its own time zone).


Anyway assuming I haven't actually lost a day, we left Red River yesterday morning and headed into Taos for breakfast. Apart from possibly the best breakfast of the trip at Michael's, we loved the small town as well, with its Adobe architecture and dozens of places to gaze at art we were not gong to buy. Sadly the old Pueblo, a World Heritage Site, just on the north side of the town is closed to visitors some days of the week - those who still live there need some privacy - so we were unable to visit. Sometimes the serendipity thing doesn't quite work. It was open today, but we were by then 200 or so miles away. But no matter, it just gave us something to come back for one day.

Wouldn't be the same without a selfie.

Then we crossed the Rio Grande! Felt important! One day this will look like the Grand Canyon.

The Mexican border along the whole of the state of Texas, but once into New Mexico it meanders its way to the rockies. Well, the other way round obviously - it meanders from the Rockies, though New Mexico to the Texas/Mexico border. Blimey, think I have lost my thread. Start again...

Its a long way down.

So ... the rain of the night before had relented but threatened all day, as it has done today, so we are bundled up in waterproofs in preparation. Thankfully its not too hot, and having expected the worst for the last two days we have really only had the odd heavy shower. Although we did delay this morning's departure from Farmington for half an hour after a cloudburst just about flooded the car park - Eric still managed to find his way through the largest puddle on the way out though! No pictures, too busy making sure I stayed upright!


Yesterday was a great driving day across the mouthains of northern New Mexico and culminated in a visit to the misnamed Aztec Ruins just outside Bloomfield. It has nothing to do with the Aztecs, but is an old pueblo community about which remarkably little seems to be known, other than it was abandoned, but for reasons unknown. This slightly surprised me as the Pueblons (I think I've made that word up) have an oral tradition for passing down stories and there are many thousands still living in the area. So why not just ask them? Presumably its not quite that simple! I asked the warden who said they were quite private - which sounded like b*****ks to me.

We rounded off another great day, with a Mexican meal that was actually excellent (I'm not normally a fan, but it was the only place open and walkable in the rain). Eric was particularly happy because they sold their rather fetching t-shrits but only had his size. So he refused, as it would have be rude. No, of course he didn't. He will now wear it at every opportunity to remind us! Picture to follow.


And so onto today... An inauspicious start, what with the cloudburst and a weather forecast that promised plenty of rain, actually turned into (yet another) great day. Eric ruined his blemish free leadership day (anything requiring zero u-turns is considered blemish free in our book), by forgetting his gas pump in his bike and putting roughly 2 gallons on the floor. He blames the pump. We blame the idiot holding the pump.

Couple of interesting stops, first at the Navajo Museum in Window Rock (we never did find the rock with the hole in it), but we did find out a great deal about how the Navajo were totally shafted by the American government - first thrown off their land and made to walk up to 400 miles to their own incarceration, then allowed back several years later but on terms that were completely favourable to the US. Sobering reading and some insight to the ongoing unresolved issues of modern times. Well worth the visit.

And then the Hubbell Trading Post. Its been a trading post here for ... er, a long time!

... where they make rugs of exquisite beauty, but way out of my price range.

That led us eventually to the picturesque Petrified Forest National Park. Apparently its full title is Petrified Forest and Painted Desert. To our mind, although the petrified wood is fascinating, it needs a better name. Something with more wow! But then maybe we wouldn't have had it virtually to ourselves. 28 miles of amazing views. Some stunning landscape and hopefully a few decent pictures (the good ones I have probably nicked from Eric or Rob).

It is bit of a wow!

Its all about the bikes!

Just a reminder of the old Route 66, which crosses the park.

And another.

And then our stop for the night, a very serviceable Econolodge in Holbrook on Route 66. And a magical rainbow to welcome us - hopefully a sign of the last of the rain. Again all a motel should be - clean, cheap and near a superb bar/restaurant, where we ate, drank and were merry! Tomorrow we will be "standing on a corner in Winslow Arizona...". I pity anyone who is in earshot!

And finally a selfie taken by Eric. Evidence of why we don't let the short arse do this very often!

And look what I found in the bar! Didn't drink any obviously.


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