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  • Writer's pictureThe Bald Journaller

Farewell to the Emerald Isle ... for now

Well, we got even less of the WAW completed than we expected. For a start the Ring of Kerry will have to be visited on another trip as we basically abandoned it in favour of playing endless rounds of cards in a pub in Kilgorlin. As it turned out probably the right decision as the predicted rain didn't let up all day and we did indeed stay in the bar - drinking coffee and tea, and eating our way through the entire menu. The lovely people at the Bianconi Inn were kind enough to look after our bags and motorbike gear so we didn't have to sit all day in armoured trousers and boots. We have now completed about forty rounds of "Shithead" and I am losing badly as usual.


At almost 3pm we ventured out for the first time - it was still hammering it down - to dash the 8km to Milltown for an unusual stop for us in a private house on an estate on the edge of the village. As it turns out accommodation has been a little harder to find than expected so needs must and a three bedroom house in "suburbia" will do was well as anything.

And a short walk to the local Larkin's Bar presented us with a chance to play yet more cards, sample yet more Guinness, and eat copious amounts of homemade Irish lamb stew - which was top notch!

So in biking terms I think we can safely say that yesterday was bit of write off.


And so the dawn broke with more hope than expectation of a change in the weather. Did I mention earlier that we would be lucky to avoid a drenching at some point. At least it wasn't constant torrential downpour so we decided that we would indeed tackle the Dingle Peninsula as planned. All went well for about the first hour with a fine nosh up breakfast at The Goat Cafe in Dingle and a rather excellent visit to the Gallarus Oratory an early mortarless stone church which has withstood the test of time.

Eric living up to our usual stupidity.

Then foolishly we decided to complete the drive round the entire peninsula and the heavens duly opened up again. Somewhat unbelievably on a narrow bend near Slea Head we came across a ford (yes, one of those with a river across the road!) on the main road, unmarked, and unwarned. That had us screeching with fear, and not long after we stopped, to calm our beating hearts and for the evidential photo that we were indeed have a pretty crap day on the bikes! Time to get the hell out of Dodge. A straight run to Listowel for about an hour and half got us there bang on check in time looking like drowned rats.

Anyone know the way? Don't fall off a cliff!

As Sunday broke, the third in a row with yet more rain, we decided it was time to cut and run a day earlier than planned. Riding in the rain isn't that much fun but its alright. But when you are soaked there is not much enjoyment in getting off to look at anything or even sit in a cafe sipping espresso in your dripping gear. So the M7 it was, straight to Dublin for the afternoon ferry to Holyhead, trying to get ahead of the rain if possible that was sticking stubbornly to the west coast. I also couldn't believe we were heading for Wales to avoid the rain!


Our only stop on the way of note, Barack Obama Plaza, so named as this is near his Irish ancestral home at Moneygall, County Offaly. A quick coffee and a selfie was all we could manage if we were not to miss the ferry, which was a shame as there was an exhibition upstairs that we would have otherwise have had a look round. By this time we were at least down to light drizzle, but to compensate the wind was getting up and I think we were probably relieved to get off the bikes after about 200+ miles and strap them onto the ferry for three and half hours of just sitting!

Just 20 minutes off the ferry in Holyhead saw us in The Bull Hotel in Llangefni, in the middle of Anglesey, not, as it turns out one of our better choices of hotels. This one got 7.1 on booking.com. Not sure how bad you have to be to get a score of below 6! Leaky showers, taps that can't be turned off, and crumbling walls. Bit of a dump really. But we have to get one on our trips! My bathroom window.

Just a pic of the front door. Probably won't be my first pick if I ever stay on Anglesey again!

But to be fair, friendly locals who we managed to thrash at pool - some things never change!


And so we head for home. Today we have had another fabulous day from Anglesey, through mid Wales and into Shropshire and Worcestershire. Determined not to repeat the mistakes of last night we have booked a rather nice pub by the riverside in Upton upon Severn, where ... drum roll, breaking news ... after trailing for the entire trip I became "Shithead" champion! Ha, eat your hearts out boys! I was just biding my time. And I'm pool champion as well!! Ha, ha! Played 2, won 2 - so not exactly a taxing competition!). Admittedly I didn't win a single round of nomination whist, but that takes skill!

As well as some spectacular (dry) roads today we also managed a brief stop at Cymer Abbey outside Dolgellau (or Dolly Gow, as we non-Welsh insist on calling it)

Then a brilliant, and considerably longer, stop at Stokesay Castle just outside Ludlow, where I learnt very little but observed the most complete roof and staircase of its type in ... the world?, Britain?, the known universe?

And watched swallows and swifts feeding their young in the rafters of the aforementioned complete roof (totally out of focus I know - you had to be there really!)

A truly magical place and we almost had to tear ourselves away after about an hour and half - as they were closing and we still had 60 odd miles to go. Usual story!

So thats it for another trip. Tomorrow we plan to breakfast in the Cotswolds before heading in our separate directions. It has been yet another magical experience. Fell in love with Ireland but need to go back when the weather might be bit kinder and perhaps we can find more pubs that will let us sing along to random folk music, at the tops our of tuneless voices. And maybe let Rob play the piano!


Our next trip, I am almost ashamed to say is back to the States. We have hired BMWs to pick up in Las Vegas in early September followed by 3 weeks of complete madness in and around Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and perhaps Kansas (if I can persuade the boys to include at least one state I have never been to!) Maybe Wyoming, Idaho or even Montana - who knows. As usual we have little in the way of a plan - we just need to be back where we started after 21 days! Whatever, we will doubtless see some spectacular scenery and I am sure I will mange to record at least some of it. For now it's back home tomorrow. There is a new house to sort out and ... I need a rest! I'll leave you with some final pics...


3 idiots at Stokesay Castle

The same 3 idiots with the Blues Brothers in Upton upon Severn (apparently they sponsor a blues festival here)

Not a selfie but how embarrassing - Eric with his arm draped around Obama's shoulder! No class!

An award winning pano taken by one of the other idiots at Stokesay (or so they say)

Just the view from our hotel. Time I went to bed. Night night and bye for now.





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Sean Parker
Sean Parker
Jun 28, 2022

Well done to you all - shame about that Irish weather! However, a nice trip to look forward to in September will keep spirits high no doubt.

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The Bald Journaller
The Bald Journaller
Jun 29, 2022
Replying to

And doubtless it will be here before we know it! Had a great time even if we had to ride through a few cloudbursts!

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