Countries: 4 (Poland)
Distance so far: 1690km
We have just about completed our crossing of Poland from West to East and we still basically have no idea of the speed limits. We are working on the assumption that they are roughly the same as Germany - 50kph in built up areas, 100kph in rural, 130kph (or just bloody go for it) on Autobahns. But we have seen no sign to confirm this and whilst there is usually (but not always) a sign to limit your speed there is often no matching delimit sign as you exit a town or village.
Add to that, the fact that Poland appears to be obsessive about reducing the speed on its roads at every junction, church, bus stop or even small hill (without ever telling you you can speed up again), it will be amazing if we have not fallen foul of the speed police at some point. We are trying, honest! Mainly we follow what the locals do, but that might turn out to be a rather misguided policy! At least we can’t be caught on a camera pointing at the front of the bikes!
Enough of that, I have some catching up to do…
I left the travelogue at Arnhem I believe. From there we have been heading inexorably east, on the flattest sustained landscape we have seen since the American prairies. And if tiny villages (with requisite speed reductions) didn’t keep getting in the way it would be fabulous riding. Lots of overtaking places when trucks decide they also have a right to use the road and even without twisty bends, good road surfaces in both Germany and Poland. But those speed restrictions. Sorry, done that.
And we have seen loads of storks! Huge nests they are built on what appear to be platforms added to telegraph poles and the like to encourage them.
Our night after Arnhem was just outside Hannover (from where we went to Bergen-Belsen the next morning) in an excellent Ibis Budget, with an equally excellent Chinese restaurant almost next door, recommended by the equally lovely hotel manager. As ever on these trips we rarely come across anything but kindness, friendliness and a welcome. Even after our hamfisted attempts at the language. Although to be honest in Poland that is pretty much restricted to hello and thank you. But we smile a lot. And point!
That was followed by an excellent local hotel in a place called Kyritz north west of Berlin.
And we would have been there by late afternoon if not for the non existence of a ferry across the Elbe. To be fair the destination we were looking for was crossed out on the sign but there was nothing to say that the ferry wasn’t running. And it hadn’t been running for years judging by the state of the access ramp. It seems Germany doesn’t do “diversions”. They cross something out and you find your own way. Trouble is we tend to optimism but if Eric says “Fail to Plan, Plan to Fail” one more time I will chuck him in the Elbe. Of course a u-turn was demanded and roughly an hour’s detour! We got in later than we wanted to!
A different ferry was required.
Just before leaving Germany behind (with at least understandable speed limits - stop it!), we spent a great hour at Chorin Abbey, rebuilt in its original style 500(?) (ask Eric) years after it was first built. Had a nice tea room with apple cake too! Always an important consideration.
On entering Poland, Pila was chosen as point B, primarily for its distance from A (Kyritz) and C (Olsztyn), giving us the chance to get off the bikes by a staggeringly early 5pm.
A city which has clearly not yet shaken of its soviet architecture but which nevertheless welcomed us as everywhere seems to. We found a great friendly bar for the Scotland v Germany Euros opener, but we won’t mention the result (and anyway I’m Irish).
It has also spruced itself up with some fabulous wall murals and in the morning I found a bustling market which would have been perfect if only it had a cafe serving early morning coffee.
And I had better mention the mathematical idiocy of the previous night’s pizza meal. Having paid in Zloty but having no cash for a tip, we forked it out in Euros. Forgetting the roughly 4 to 1 exchange, it is no wonder the waitress was very happy. 10% immediately became a 40% tip, which is generous even for me! I take full responsibility and the boys will doubtless remind me of it at regular intervals. Ah well, we made someone’s night! And yes, Eric and I are drinking the equivalent of Lambrusco! We all make mistakes! Have I mentioned our Polish isn’t that good?
Having decided we really did want to get off the bikes earlier today we have again found a gem of a hotel on the outskirts of Olsztyn, by a lake, with a very nice looking restaurant and a pool table. A proper one! You’d love this Steve! Only minor drawback might be that there is a wedding reception - it might get a bit lairy later! But for now, I am sitting on the terrace overlooking the lake in 24ºC writing this bilge, before meeting the gents (loose term) for dinner very soon. Somehow we are all hungry again! Bit posh for us this place but we will make do.
Today’s journey was only punctuated by The King of Scotland wielding a medieval claymore, almost certainly against rules of the establishment, but you know those royals. They just don’t care.
Initially disappointed at the Teutonic Castle in Swiecie, we eventually found that it housed a an art display inspired by the famous Battle of Grunwald painting which can be found in the National Museum in Warsaw. We had never heard of it, but its copy is impressive.
And Eric got to wield the sword of destiny or whatever.
And we got to go up the tower. All 196 steps of it. Great views over the countryside for our efforts.
Then it was straight to Olsztyn for the early finish. Just deciding where to end up tomorrow.
So that’s me up to date. A fairly straight travelogue today. Tomorrow we reach Lithuania and start heading north into the Baltic States.
Not much in the way of selfies but this is where we breakfasted on our way out of Garbsen, nr Hannover. We’ve discovered German bakeries! Fab!
And this? Outside the castle at Swiecie. Provide your own caption.
Bye for now.
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