Alaska’s capital city. Despite being tiny compared to Anchorage and Fairbanks, it remains the capital despite efforts to move it. Some years ago when put to the state vote the result was thought to be foregone conclusion - one of the two big cities was much more sensible. But the residents of Anchorage felt they could not countenance Fairbanks as capital, and the good people of Fairbanks thought vice versa. And everyone else didn’t want either of them! So, slightly unbelievably, the status quo was maintained and Juneau got the vote, despite being a city of about 20 odd thousand and “sea-locked” - there is no road from Juneau to anywhere! Pretty though, especially near sunset from high up on Mount Roberts overlooking the Gastineau Channel.
I understand the idea of building a brand new capital between Anchorage and Fairbanks was considered, a la Australian compromise between Sydney and Melbourne that begot Canberra, but here sense prevailed and they stuck with what they had. Despite that a majority of government jobs are still in Anchorage apparently, so Juneau only half won! And somewhat unbelievably, the city and municipal borough of Juneau (commonly just called Juneau) is actually the second biggest city by area in the USA! And presumably one of the most sparsely populated.
It had been made the capital after Alaska was bought from Russia and the previous capital, Sitka, was thought too Russian - that and gold was found in them there Juneau hills - and so Juneau grew rapidly in the early part of the 20th century. And at that time Anchorage didn’t even exist. As it turns out Sitka is THE largest city in the USA by area, and the top 4 are all in Alaska (it also being by far the largest state). Sitka, Juneau, Wrangell & Anchorage since you asked! Blimey, by the time this trip ends I will have been to them all!
Anyway that will do for mostly (some?) accurate history. Apparently a stop in Juneau was scheduled but for the middle of the night for technical reasons (to empty the s**t tanks I understand) but permission was granted for us to dock during the evening alongside all the massive cruise ships. If you thought the Roald Amundsen was big, you should have seen the Sea Princess - roughly 10 times the capacity! Over 4000 people! It's the one on the very far left of this picture below. It's a monster, and apparently there are bigger ones.
I can’t work out why a scheduled stop is not included anyway - perhaps because this is an “expedition” - but the trip would have been poorer but for the “unscheduled” 5 or 6 hours in this rather charming city. From the cable car up to the top of Mount Roberts the views were spectacular. But so they should have been given there was almost bugger all else up there and they charged $45 dollars for the privilege. I think a one way ticket was considerably cheaper but it was an hour and a half trek up through steep wooded bear country so not much of an incentive to save a bit of cash!
After that a charming walk along the water front to the new Whale Fountain, which is almost certainly not called that and which stubbornly refused to “fountain” while we were there. Although the light was so perfect it didn’t really matter.
And the warm summer evening (hard to believe we are in Alaska sometimes), just begged to be celebrated with a damn fine pint (American so only 16oz, however much that actually is), from the Alaska Brewing Company. So we did. View of our boat from the outdoor bar! I could get used to this although yet another day of abstinence has gone begging! And all the other big ships have sailed on the alley alley oo! Just us left.
And finally for now, the rather lovely sculpture of a traditional canoe on the Juneau waterfront.
Comments