Miles yesterday: 305!
Miles today: 130
Miles so far 1790
What a day! What a "two days"!
We've reached our most northerly point - Custer in the Black Hills of Dakota - South Dakota that is. But it took over 300 miles of driving yesterday. Mostly along deserted Wyoming roads, which surprisingly (to us) often wandered and swept though hills, making them much more interesting than I think we expected. But more of yesterday, later.
Today, though short on miles, we have had one of those magical days: a visit to the world's 3rd longest cave system; a slightly scary close encounter with about 1000 bison; a view of four presidents carved into Black Hills rock; and another close encounter - this time with Crazy Horse. And to top it all the server in the Baker's Bakery & Cafe in Custer recognised me! Yes, I know, I'm very sad for being so happy about this.
Jewel Cave National Monument is just 15 minutes west of Custer. We only had time for a brief underground introduction but it was beautiful for all that. If they ever find that it connects with Wind Cave, just 20 miles away I think it will actually be the world's largest cave system (obviously I haven't actually checked that!) - but at the moment nobody knows if they connect or not! Exciting - if you are a caver.
From Jewel, we circled back into Custer for breakfast where I was reacquainted with Nicole! Great breakfast too!
And then into the Custer State Park for the up close and personal meeting with the huge herd of wild bison. There were a couple of times when I wished I was in a car, and not rather exposed on a motorbike. But we were assured at the gate the record for motorcyclists gored to death by bison currently stood at zero. Glad we were not the first!
Bison crossing. Humans stop!
How did I end up at the front?
Round, via some delightful twisty roads including a number of "pigtail bridges", where some of the corners are so tight they cross back under themselves, to Mount Rushmore. Seems weird to think I was here only 4 months ago and it feels so familiar. Obligatory terrible selfie taken of course.
Yup, idiots!
Then to round off the day, before a final sprint south to Hot Springs, we booked ourselves, at my recommendation, on a van tour to the top of Crazy Horse for our second up close and personal encounter of the day. The Crazy Horse centre too felt very familiar having again been here 4 months ago, but I had last gone up the mountain 6 years ago and it didn't disappoint, even a second time. Glad to know that Eric and Rob thought it magical too.
Not a selfie!
At the end of our marathon day yesterday we had actually done the extra 5 miles or so, there and back, to Crazy Horse to book our mountain visit, but also to see the laser light show that is given each night about an hour after sunset. I wish I could report that it was wonderful, worth it and we were inspired. But it was actually dreadful, both in its quality of light show and the mixed message it appeared to project. If it wasn't so late I might have a rant, but overall I love the place and what it is attempting to do. Monumental is apt!
But earlier in the day yesterday, despite what felt like a pretty vast distance covered, we had managed to find time to stop for an excellent informative hour at Fort Laramie (which turns out not to be in Laramie!)
And a frankly freaky Stagecoach Museum in Lusk, which really should be renamed some sort of Cultural Centre, given the vast and varied collection of memorabilia it housed. We couldn't persuade the 92 year old custodian to have her picture taken with us - which is a shame as she was very much part of the place's charm. We had found yet another gem, with no prior knowledge and little planning on our part.
Inside, with stagecoach as background.
And so as I write we are starting to head south again. We are in South Dakota, but tomorrow cross over into Nebraska, where many an open plain awaits us, but also lots of places of historical interest. Doubtless Eric will have us stopping at them all.
It's late so its good night from me. Some last pictures...
Seemingly endless roads of Wyoming.
Another top class diner!
The rather fabulous Rocket Motel, where we stayed in Custer.
And again, with bike parked up.
Crazy Horse at night - before the awful light show!
Bison, up close and personal
I understand that the land in the Black Hills of Dakota, sacred to the Native American Indians, was appropriated for Mount Rushmore, without their permission and against their will. Some things don't change.
That really is it. But I want to close with a last picture of Crazy Horse. Rob and Eric for scale. One day it will be finished. I wish I could be around.
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