Shake, rattle and roll

Well, clearly nobody takes the train across America to get there quickly! And seriously, Amtrak you need to invest to bring your rolling stock up to modern standards, if you want to charge the kind of prices you are charging. So I have to admit to some disappointment on boarding the train at 4.30am in Flagstaff.

Sittin' at a railway station, got a ticket for my destination

The coach had seen better days (I'm being kind), and it being the middle of the night I had expected the bed to be made up. However, our “car attendant” soon had us sorted out and after we had managed to flood the sink and negotiate the aircraft style bog, we settled down for a bit more kip. Actually pretty comfortable, although what was badged as a double bed was nothing of the sort - I don't call a 4ft bed with one of you crammed against the wall a double. So as usual, pulling the, "I'm older than you" card, I got the "downstairs" while Nareesa clambered into the top bunk. I guess this is supposed to sleep three then! She refused permission for a photograph.

Obligatory selfie

The train was apparently built in the 1950s and has hardly been updated since! I particularly liked the offer of adjusting our air conditioning by taping a piece of cardboard over the air outlet! Stephen, our car attendant, did joke, “it really is no problem, it’s obviously been done before - you can still see the tape!” And we duly did have to ask him to do this, as by the time we had been on board for a few hours we were freezing! To be fair to him, it did solve the problem! All part of the rich experience! But I would have to say that if Amtrak want to market this as a premium experience (as they do), they really do need a better heating solution than a bit of taped cereal box!

As small compensation, the food was pretty decent and the views over the Arizona and New Mexico countryside, were magnificent.

So back to the trip… Whilst we have seen much of it already, I don’t tire of the views of red sandstone buttes, bluffs and mesas (no, of course I don’t know the difference) as they drift slowly by from a train window. It might not quite be the “luxury” experience of the Indian Pacific train across Australia but it is nevertheless a gentle way to travel. And at least for 24 hours or so I can congratulate myself in having chosen the most environmentally friendly method of transport. I know, don't have a go!

We had a half hour stretch of the legs in Albuquerque, which only confirmed that, like most of the world, stations are rarely sited in the most salubrious part of town. So can’t really claim to have got to know New Mexico’s largest city.

New Mexico drifted into Kansas and the plains stretched out in every direction. Thunderstorms gathering over the western edge of the Rockies produced some spectacular rainbows, none of which we managed to photograph satisfactorily through the train windows.

And then, suddenly, it was almost dark. Cue, dinner (which to be fair to Amtrak, was pretty good), our first game of cribbage in the observation car, and then reconverting our already bijou little cabin into a bedroom for 2 (or 3).

We are old hands at this now and had the whole set up in less than five minutes without even having to call Stephen. And with our cardboard, air conditioner adjuster I managed a very decent nights sleep. Nareesa, in the coffin above me perhaps slightly less so. Yes, it's an experience, but to be honest unless Amtrak get their act together and provide a service commensurate with what they are charging, I won't be doing this again. Just over 24 hours, including a sleep and a half, on the train saw us in Kansas City, Missouri (why isn't it in Kansas?) early on Sunday morning, waking to a lovely sunrise.

It was at this point that Nareesa spotted the logistical flaw in my planning - check into the hotel being a distant 6 hours away. Luckily for us the train was actually over an hour late (a common enough event on Amtrak I believe), or it would have been even longer. But being as ever resourceful, a suitable long breakfast was identified in the rather magnificent Kansas City Union Station. Then drop the bags and go exploring - on a Sunday, when most things are shut. Another logistical flaw! Oh well, can’t be perfect all the time!

But as usual (well, sometimes) serendipity came to my rescue again and we discovered the National World War One Museum and Memorial, a mere stone's throw from the hotel and train station. And excellent it is too. Occupied well over 2 hours of our time after which we were able to check in to our hotel and take a well needed shower! There was a shower on the train, but at 80cm x 80cm floor space we couldn't be bothered. That and the fact that you had to shower sitting on the toilet! We know how to live. Amtrak, get your act together!

So here we are in KCMO (That's Kansas City, Missouri, for those not in the know), It looks like a rather nice city, but then it is Sunday, the sun is shining and it is a very pleasant 26ºC. We are having a short chill out afternoon before we paint the town red this evening! Next stop tomorrow is St Louis, all across my 44th state! Not by train!