South Western Townships

Or better known as Soweto

We thought long and hard about whether or not we should visit. Our government and the global media would have us believe that visiting independently is not safe enough. We don't currently know anyone local to take us there and so that leaves only the option of joining a tour. But does that feel too much like voyeurism? Us rich tourists gawping at the poor in a township known for its struggles against apartheid but also for its deprivation in parts. Or perhaps we have got that wrong. Maybe Soweto is, like many places, much more nuanced and much less simplistically described.

So if we are ever to understand the issues that a young democratic nation is facing do we not need to at least try to bear witness directly if at all possible? As I have said many times before, I travel to broaden my mind, not just to see the beautiful places in the world, and so we booked a local company to take us into Soweto, with the hope we are not simply "looking", but trying to understand and to contribute what little we can to the local economy. I realise now I am just sounding pious and probably self-justifying. But at least I am trying.

And so on our first full day in Johannesburg we have been picked up by Thabang Molefe, an independent local tour guide, who, for the duration of most of the day (and, it has to be said, for the price of a half day tour) would be our guide, mentor, inspiration and source of information. And as you can probably tell already he was brilliant and it was brilliant.

First the basics: Soweto is a city of over 3 million people. And actually 32 different townships, originally separated by language. I had to let that sink in. Its not some shady town on the edge of much bigger city. It is a living, breathing entity in its own right. And it then follows, perhaps obviously once you know it, that it is not the simply poor and dangerous district that it is sometimes portrayed to be.

Of those 3 million or so, roughly 60% are considered to be middle class, albeit some still living in very poor accommodation having been promised sanitation and electricity some 29 years ago ... and still waiting.

Some 10% are considered upper class and living in houses that would not be out of place in the suburbs of a wealthy America city. Yes, this house is in Soweto.

The remaining 30% are undoubtedly poor and scratching out a living. But contrary to popular belief the townships are safe, possibly because they are kept in order by the community itself and it is not in anyone's interests to put off visitors from visiting. But even amongst those with the least we were welcomed and shown nothing but kindness.

The only place we were even remotely pestered by hawkers (and they are just trying to make a living) was at the two "hot spots": the Mandela House and the Hector Pieterson Memorial, where, as it turns out, most tours begin and end. We had been fortunate enough, actually due to Andy's research back home, to engage with Thabang and the two tourist hot spots made up probably less than a quarter of our visit.

Now don't get me wrong, the "hotspots" are worth visiting. The Hector Pieterson Memorial sadly commemorates the death of 13 year old Hector, and 21 others, in 1976 at the hands of a racist police force. A peaceful march to protest at the enforced use of Afrikaans as the language of education was met with lethal force during some of the darkest hours of apartheid. But as Thabang himself pointed out, it was also something of a turning point as the world finally took notice of the odious regime it was at that point either ignoring or actively supporting. I was at university at the time and remember joining an anti-apartheid march soon after. It took nearly another 20 years but the edifice of white minority rule finally fell when South Africa first elected its democratic government led by one Nelson Mandela in 1994. It ain't perfect but it's progress from what went before.

As we are visiting Robben Island off the coast of Cape Town later I will save my thoughts on Mandela for that. But his Soweto home was also worth the short visit - just not as good as the rest of our more extensive one. Funnily enough it was just about the only place in Soweto we saw any white people. For some reason I forgot to take a picture of Mandela House but this is a view from it

Thabang took us to the rich parts, the poor parts and the many parts in between. Soweto is a place of contrasts, like so many other places in the world. Sadly the new housing with water, sanitation and electricity has been built in massively insufficient numbers and the waiting lists for them is ludicrously high. Unless you are prepared to jump the queue - by the usual means. But that isn't an option for most with virtually no disposable money and so poor quality housing, in some cases constructed of corrugated iron, and/or asbestos roofing, remains extensive. The nearest water is from stand pipes along the unpaved lane for many, many people and it is no wonder they are starting to question their own government's intention and competence, however democratically elected it is. Below is our walking guide, Hope, who took us to see a children's nursery in what is undoubtedly one of the poorest parts of the city. She was upbeat and charming. It was uncomfortable visiting people who have so little when we have so much, but I believe we did no harm, and are better for having done it. If we can support the local economy a bit and just as importantly tell others what Soweto is really like, change may just be hastened a little bit. I certainly hope so.

One of the enduring sights of many parts is the electricity cables illegally strung from the new "Mandela" houses to the shacks just across the road. And those fortunate enough to live in the houses do nothing to stop this - because it is the shacks that they have come from.

The upper class township of Diepkloof stands across the fields from a much poorer area, but no walls or barbed wire is required to separate them - because those in the upper class know where they have come from: the very same low quality housing.

Contrast that with our route to Soweto that took us through the Houghton Estate - huge houses, surrounded by massive unclimbable walls topped with barbed wire and guarded by armed security. Where of course most of the residents are still white. I asked Thabang, "how many white people live in Soweto?" The answer: "None".

I've only been here 36 hours and already I feel and hope I have some greater insight into the country. But lets not be hasty. I have nearly 4 weeks left. I am sure I will return to the theme of politics and culture but let me wrap this up with just a review of what has been yet another amazing day in the life of Alan Macgregor. Thabang asked us all what our highlight of the tour had been. With varying language and emphasis, we all said much the the same. That it been the sense of understanding the place better - the history, the people, the culture and the politics. We can't hope to understand a place properly in this time but I can assure any one reading this that a visit to Soweto is well worth the time and effort. But please don't take the easy "tourist" option as Thabang calls it. Take his "homey" option and spend time getting to know all of it, even if for a short time.

And since I am hoping that Thabang is reading this, if only to see his selfie, I am going to give him a shameless plug. If you are visiting South Africa and want to spend time with an amazing guide find him at www.tsalanangtours.co.za Soweto is a specialism because that is where he lives. But he can offer many other things too.

I hope you are reading this Thabang because I want to finish with a heartfelt thank you. I travel to understand - and you have added to that enormously. I hope it is a compliment to you that I would now happily visit Soweto independently and without fear.

On the way to and from Soweto we passed the centre of Johannesburg. Now that is a dangerous place , but perhaps not for the precise reasons we have been led to believe. I'll be brief but the government has effectively abandoned the old centre of Johannesburg and businesses have moved to Sandton and Rosebank. Buildings downtown are now just illegally occupied and it is very dangerous down there, not only to visitors but South Africans too. It was sad to see such a huge array of real estate basically given up to crime and loss of hope! I had visited 30 years ago and had hoped to return to the vibrant African city if once was. No longer an option.

As usual some pictures to finish with...

The famous Soweto Towers. Once upon a time the power station that provided power for the white people and and pollution for the black people.

Found in the Mandela House, the State of Michigan imploring the President of the United States to apologise to President Nelson Mandela for the CIA's involvement in his arrest in 1967 and its historical support for apartheid. He never did.

The stadium of my new best football team, Orlando Pirates (Thabang wouldn't forgive me if I said anything else - although he is a Manchester United fan as well, so he's not perfect 😂 😉). And in one of life's little ironies, in one of the supposedly most dangerous places in the world fans of opposing clubs sit with each other. In Britain we have to separate them or they would kill each other!

Nareesa at the Hector Pieterson Memorial

That's all for now. I hope I haven't offended anyone and if any of it is inaccurate please let me know.

Thabang, I hope you get to Old Trafford one day soon.