The Bald Journaller
- Sep 6, 2020
- 3 min read

The Self-Quarantine Motorbike Tour of GB - just 2 idiots, day 3

Where are we? North Queensferry, just across the Firth of Forth

Where should we be? Monument Valley, Arizona

Miles today: 186

Miles total: 596

First of all I need to express my sincere thanks firstly to English Heritage for, preserving Black Midden Bastle House for the nation and, secondly to my good friend Eric Browett for taking me hundreds of miles off the beaten track in Northumberland to see what is undoubtedly the highlight of this trip, nay, any trip. I recognise it is hard for the uninitiated to see the difference between this and a run down, knackered old barn, but it is all in the history. My forefathers fought for centuries over this bit of land (ok, they stole cattle and rustled sheep), and it is good to see this wonderful example of ... er, a barn, a million miles from anywhere, is being kept from falling down (more than it already has!).

It was obvious from the packed car park (two motorbikes) that this is high on the list of English Heritage's most visited attractions. So busy we both managed to have a wee, without leaving the car park (hmm, perhaps too much information).

OK, enough, as it happens the ride to the Bastle (basically a fortified barn) was actually magical and without being remotely sarcastic I can actually say that today was probably one of the best motorbike riding days we have ever had, bar ... well, almost none. Just perhaps some of the days in the USA through national parks beat it but only just. Unbelievably we left Darlington and for the next 160 miles, the largest habitation we came across was Corbridge, on the Tyne, population about 3000. We found mile after mile of backwater lanes with good tarmac and virtually no traffic. We also a found few hairpin bends coming off the moors, but that just added to the drama. The road out of Darlington, through Staindrop and up to Corbridge, through the North Pennines is just stunning. Mile after mile of twisting B roads with nobody on them. Bikers paradise! The lack of people might have had something to do with the weather which to be honest in the morning was somewhat damp. But bleak doesn't get much better than this!

And at the end of it, after a bacon buttie stop in Corbridge (I put my foot down!) Aydon Castle provided a much needed history interlude (because this trip just wouldn't be what it is without multiple stops at ruined castles each day!)

Getting lost in finding the aforementioned Black Midden Bastle, followed. In fact we had a sweep stake on how many times we would get lost. In fact it was only 3 - exactly as Eric had predicted, so I get to buy tonight's nightcap! Eric was leading today so I had guessed 7!

A little later we had brief (all too brief) lunch stop in England's last cafe, also known as England's worst cafe run by England's grumpiest cafe owner.

Not one I'd recommend but at least we had hot cup of tea before entering the land of my fathers (or is that what why say in Wales). As you can see, two happy bunnies, looking like idiots as usual.

Our final stop for the day, long enough to make sure we would be late arriving into Edinburgh, was at the superb Melrose Abbey. Wonderful atmospheric place and the final resting place of Robert the Bruce's heart - not his body, that is in Dunfermline Abbey, just his heart. Apparently it was preserved in tar and cannot be DNA tested so nobody knows if it is genuine or some bloke they found dead in a field.

And so it is we find ourselves in our fantastic cut price Hilton, overlooking the River Forth and both the road bridges (the famous rail bridge is just round the corner and not visible from my room, but I will see if a picture can be had tomorrow morning). We even got upgraded and breakfast for free! We're not exactly slumming it on this trip, this is the view from my room!

The weather (for now) is beautiful and the views up the Forth at sunset are magical. I might sleep with the curtains open. Good night from me, tomorrow is another day ... into the highlands. And probably the rain.

Here's the rest of the pictures...