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  • Writer's pictureThe Bald Journaller

The Self-Quarantine Motorbike Tour of GB - just 2 idiots, day 7

Where are we? Edinburgh (weather on west coast looked a bit ... well, crap really!)

Where should we be? Probably still in Kansas - its a big flat state!

Miles today: 233 (long day today!)

Miles total: 1405


Believe it of not, despite it being a high mileage day, we got in early (ish) so this one might be bit longer - sorry!


Firstly some reflections on the North Coast 500. Marks out of 10, here we go...


Scenery: A well deserved 10. I have travelled a lot and it really does compare with just about anywhere in the world I have been. From dramatic mountains, to hidden coves with exquisite sandy beaches, to bleak wind swept moorland, to vibrant heather, to... I could go on, it was just brilliant.


Riding (on a motorbike): 8 It doesn't get a 10 for reasons that will be come apparent in the next section. Just a bit too much waiting for oncoming vehicles at passing places meant it sometimes lacked "flow". As soon as we hit two lane sections it was brilliant.


Infrastructure: I guess that means roads and hotels - 6.The roads are ok but given that Scotland is marketing this hard I feel they should actually be a bit better. The tourist board (or whatever it is called) has successfully got lots of people to visit, but in places the roads cannot cope well (and the tarmac sometimes needs a bit of attention), and you can spend a lot of time crawling along in a procession and waiting in passing places. Especially in a car, but even on motorbike, unless the car in front waves you by it is too narrow to pass in some parts. And it could clearly do with some more accommodation as we met any number of people who could not find anywhere to stay and were getting very wet in tents!


Weather: 8, its the north of Scotland after all and if you had offered us the mixture we got - basically four seasons in one day, every day, we would have taken it. We rarely got really wet, the sun shone some of the time and the wind didn't actually blow us off our bikes! Might have liked it a bit warmer in the evenings in September but who is complaining - it is the north of Scotland! And we saw some spectacular rainbows!


Overall: 9/10. Its a brilliant place, and we have left ourselves a bit to do on a future trip. The Applecross peninsula is to be tackled an other time - but in the dry!


So the day actually started with us visiting Culloden battlefield, site of the Scot's last stand against the English bullies! I had dragged Eric to Bannockburn so what did I expect. Cue Eric wandering round imagining the Scottish humiliation in his best Sean Connery accent. Had there been anyone actually there, the Scots would have got their revenge there and then! The visitor centre didn't open until 10am, far too late for a 200+ mile day so we had to content ourselves with the field only, imagining the carnage - in amongst the dog walkers! Very annoyingly Eric saved 11 quid - I would have got in free with English National Trust membership. And to think I joined English Heritage just for him!!


A quick sprint then to Aviemore for breakfast followed, which meant I had been up for more than 3 hours, spent almost 2 of them on a motorbike and traveled the best part of 60 miles before my first sustenance of the day - and my first coffee! And as anyone who knows me will know, that is a considerable sacrifice on my part! But all things come to those who wait and we scored a brilliant full Scottish with something called square sausage that Eric eyed with suspicion but ate (more than could be said for the black pudding which he absolutely refused to even consider). It did however mean a lunch stop was not required! You can probably see why! I did get an extra coffee to take away though!



Further down the A9, sadly passing the Tomatin and Dalwhinnie distilleries, we pulled in briefly to Pitlochry for refuelling - coffee and petrol! Then slightly off-piste via Loch Tay to Balquhidder church where my distant relative (honest) Rob Roy is buried. His grave inscription "Macgregor Despite Them" is the inspiration for the tattoo on my arm, which is of course in Gaelic. If there are any Gaelic speakers out there reading this please don't tell me it means something else entirely - like ... no, lets not go there!

Finally with almost 200 miles under our belts we had time for a revisit to the Kelpies in Falkirk. All I can say is that it is definitely in my top 5 outdoor sculptures in the world and if you are ever in the area it is a "must see". Google them if you feel like it, they are a depiction of the horses that historically pulled the barges on the local canal, and they are superb! Silly selfie of course was obligatory.


And so we find ourselves again on the north shore of the River Forth, in the magnificent (but remarkably cheap) Hilton overlooking the bridge and the river. Having missed lunch, an early dinner was called for after which I was lucky enough to be able to meet up with some Edinburgh friends Victoria and Alan for a nightcap in the hotel bar. Cue the obligatory rubbish selfie!


Luckily I drafted most of this before dinner, or it would not have been remotely coherent. If indeed it is anyway.


Tomorrow we head further south through Northumberland to visit my brother in Whitley Bay who celebrates a big birthday on Saturday. Tomorrow night's blog might be short - or non-existent!


Good night, here's the rest of today's pics...

Please don't fall in. The River Tay, I think

Nuff said!

Yep, he's an idiot

I understand that is V for victory. I just think he looks like a w...

Nice

Magnificent!

Hmm, not sure I need to include this one too!

Well hello. Or as Eric said an entry into the "View from an apple" photo competition!

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